Saturday, 27 April 2013


Headed out to Tanygrisiau today to try a boulder I had noticed  a while back.
It climbs this small arch of rock with some cool moves went at around V6 so not to bad just needed a quick clean and was good to go so figured the moves and sent it. Looks like there is more potential in the area so I think I will be heading back up there regularly.

Monday, 22 April 2013

Cromlech Bouldering

Quick update on my recent bouldering in Llanberis, went up to have a go on Jerrys Roof ended up With a Flash of the Edge problem sitting start V6 Then I did Johnnys problem V6 and managed to flash the sit start V7 not to bad if i do say so going to have to go back now to try Jerrys Roof good job I have a new van tho so I dont have to drive there and back the same day can just use it to kip in.

The Verdon Gorge

Well just back from a mega trip to the Verdon. Almost perfect except for my ankle.
What a cool place though, my mate Bruce phone's me and talks me into a trip to the Verdon. Not that I needed much convincing. So we are all planed and the date is set then i take a deck the day before we go buggering my ankle. On we go any way not wanting to miss out and i had already booked the time of work.
All I can say is that its an amazing place for climbing and the scenery, we hit up loads of routes and had a great time. I managed to Onsight 7a which is no big grade but with only 1 working foot i don't think its to bad I also managed to climb what felt like the worlds hardest 7b probably 7c after a quick top rope lead clean first go so happy with that. We hit a load of the classics up including La Demande a must do such good fun apart from the chimney if you are carrying shoes and a camera and a rucksack between your legs then its no fun cause you get stuck for half an hour and have to heave your way out on a rope lol still amaziing tho.

Last Day in Verdon
Healing From Maurice the camp site owner

Bruce just been swimming in the Gorge

Ouch My Ankle

Well what can I say, ouch indeed.
Here's the run down Briefly pulling hard, fall, deck. Lol
So im up on my project just put the draws back on and all set up climb the easy bit to the first draw and clip in. I then pull on and straight into the first crux this goes fine and im clipping the 3rd draw ready for second crux which is a hard rockover up for a nice pad crimp so im pulling hard trying to gain the height when my hand pings and I fall. Next think im still falling and then smashing into the ground, Ouch WTF im shouting at my belayer whilst trying to fathom how I hit the floor.

What happened well we all no that assisted braking belays usually catch you and that's it, well this time it didn't and my unfortunate girlfriend ended up dropping me on the deck. Its not her fault but i was still pissed at her but as I now know all to well they are only assisted and not bomb proof so when the rope zipped through and she panicked no wonder i decked but O well just a very painful ankle the day before i go to the verdon as well !!! Never mind hope it heals soon.

Hylldrem even Bigger Link

Trying the Font 8A eliminate at the Hylldrem
Ok so my last post was on the Bouldering at the Hylldrem, but its so fun there i need to post again. Now I may be sad but it is good there you can make the most crazy links up down all over. So I did one big link there but the obvious challenge was to join the 3 traverses into one huge link. So i set to work linking the sections and moves until I could do the whole thing, It then took me probably 6 goes to get it over 2 or 3 sessions there. Im not sure if it has been done before i dont think so but who knows, so it starts on the far left   and traverses right until you can get on the center right hand line you then head back left through a hard sequence until a rest from here you pull high to the top ramp and traverse this back right until the finishing holds of the far right problem. Its around 18m long so very route like but as a grade maybe hard V8 harder than rampless on the cromlech boulders also V8 but its hard to say so around the easy 8a mark i think would be better. any way heres the video hope you get some psyche and try this awsome line.