Wednesday, 12 December 2012

Monday, 10 December 2012

Black Mamba

Finally, I knew it would happen eventually.
          So there's a boulder in Barmouth Quarry that i have laid siege to with 5 different ascents so far, only 1 to go. Today I climbed Black Mamba (FA)  a furiously hard Font 7B+ I have tried the line over 4 sessions or around 9 hours. I have never climbed such an awesome boulder before. So pure it only involves 5 hand moves, but trying to link the moves felt impossible. I found that each move needed to be set up for perfectly but each move needs a different body position which in there own are hard to hold never mind move. So after working all the moves and for the first time linking the first 2 and the last 2 i felt that it might be possible. All I needed to do was link the middle move which also happens to be the hardest, so after far to many trys and still no luck i was thinking of packing up for the day. I tried 1 more time and broke off a crucial foot hold   also tearing some skin from my finger, this disappointed me but by doing so allowed me to find a better sequence for the finish so after several attempts at the finish and managing the moves i was happy that I might get the line sooner or later. So I mooched about for a little while looking at a few more un-climbed lines and after about 40min decided i would pack up. But as we do I decided to have 1 more go, I pulled on and managed to stick the first three moves which I had never done before but then fell. So i knew i could do it and decided it was going down. I tried and tried getting the hard moves but kept falling on the last 2, so i took a long rest and had a quiet word with myself about how it was easy and that if i just keep the core tension i will be fine. So i took my try sticking the hard move, quick sort your feet out all that was left is the final hard move a cutloose slap for the final sloper I was slipping and just hauled my self at it catching the edge and squeezing for dear life. I pulled over the top and sat down for a long time just watching the sun start to set over the harbor.

But that is only the beginning as there is a Hard 6B+ start and a 6C finish that can be added to the line which i think will come in at around 7C+ so although the hardest part has been done I know it still has more to offer  :)  

If any one tries a repeat of this don,t be alarmed it its harder than the grade or likewise easier. My grades are terrible and usually tend to be (hard at the grade) But if you compare this route to Luminox a font 7A+ that I put up it is a huge step in difficulty but then I  think that Luminox is only around the easy 7A mark and its only due to another climber saying he felt it was more V8 that i gave it that grade. But if you do try the line and feel you have a more accurate grade dont hesitate to let me no.

Friday, 7 December 2012

Grit Week

So from the 9th of November till the 14th I spent a week up on the grit, had a really good time ticking classics and climbing in a new area for me. So i started the week by ticking a few classics such as flying buttress direct, and The Tippler, i also soloed so many routes i don,t even no where to begin. I then climbed Censor which is given E3 5c but dam i found it bold i placed a wire blind round the lip and it was the wrong size but it was to hard to get back out so I had to press on through the crux with a bad deck potential. I also managed to climb Moss Side E4 6a which was good fun got it on my second try after a little slip, but the real goal for me was to climb Strapadictomy at Froggatt so towards the end of out trip we took a walk up and scoped the route i felt confident i could do it so went for the onsight. I climbed the first bit easy up to the move right, placed some cams and the wire out right and down climbed. I took a rest and then went for it so back up to the move right which i did fine but i had placed the wire in my hand slot so didnt make the next move and fell. i then had to lower off and get the gear. so i tryed it on a toprope instead and kept slipping off a smear which is uber polished. So i eventually got to the top and was pretty nackered, we packed up and went to the pub. The next day tho we came back and i managed to get the route on my second try placing the kit. i found an easy sequence through the top which felt good for me. I do have a video of it but waiting for Bruce to send it to me so i can upload it.