Saturday, 3 August 2013

The Dawn Arete

Reaching the halfpad 
So This is the one I have been waiting to post about, and its long over due.

The Dawn Arete
What can I say longer than expected but finally sent, so I bolted this project in November 2012 when a good friend told me it would be a perfect project. The winter weather kicked in though and I had to wait until late February until I could look at it, at first it was desperate and I could barely do each move of the two cruxes. After I had eventually worked all the moves which took around two long sessions I then headed back to make the lead. But It spat me off repeatedly and on one occasion broke my ankle. So after a great deal of healing time and a vast amount of hard bouldering I figured It was time to go back and try again. I re-worked the moves on it still finding it hard but much easier than it was 5 months ago, so after my re-acquaintance with the route I Started my attempts on the lead and made good progress falling on the last hard move as it were I then headed back and today on my third try of the day managed to send the route. I had around 7 sessions on this route and maybe around 10 good lead attempts over that time, Grade wise im not sure its only a short route of 12m with what feels like a long  f7B boulder problem so I guess its around the 8a mark but for me the grade of this route doesn't matter its an amazing and intense route which put me through my paces and i'm glad I can say that the first ascent is mine.

More about the route- Well you start by scrambling up to the first bolt where a committing step left gains the Arete and the second bolt which has an insitue draw due to the high bolt. from here a frustrating sequence where a toe hook will come in use full allows a big span right to a sidepull. Have a quick shake here and clip the third bolt from here a huge thugy rockover allows you to press your knee against the arete creating an opposition against the right sidepull you then reach up to a four finger halfpad edge. Matching this was the usual point of failure, from here you slap to the arete get your feet high and press up to the good sidepull. Clip the fourth draw here and and make the final arete slap with the right allowing the use of balance and friction to press up under the steepness to a final sidepull and a tricky move round the arete to the anchors.      

British Weather

Cones and Currents
Well I think that our summer may be over but it was good while it lasted, so as we do in Britain when the weather is good we head out to the crags and boulders to test our self's and this is what I have attempted to do over the last few months. So I kicked off my Trad season which has been very brief this year with a re-intro to Trad on Foil (E3 6a) We then headed of to Cloggy to get on Great Wall (E4 6a) while it was dry. After this I had a flying Visit to Nesscliff where I quickly climbed Cones and Currents (E5 6b) and Trouble in Toytown (E5 6b). I then Worked the moves for Marlene Direct but was out of time for the lead so when I next visit its going down.

I Had a quick weekend at Stanage, even if it was scorching and managed to onsight a load of E3's but was reluctant to try hard due to the weather. I did however take the ride on Tea for Two (E4 6a) damn hard to get that foot high, also found the move on Tippler Direct desperate only just getting the onsight. Did the Unconquerable challenge with nearly 30mins to spare all onsight, and thats about if for my Trad this year so far.

Sending Tea for Two
However I have been spending a vast amount of time bouldering and managed a load of cool ticks, Starting with Turmoil and The Roof crack both around V7 I then did Ultimate retro party which I think deserves 3 stars (f7B) and the direct finish (F7B+). I also made a quick repeat of Bagshot a hard V6 just to the right of URP. Then it was time to head back to the roof crack area where I quickly repeated Sleep-Rock (f7B) and Sleep Light (f7B+) both in a session. I had another flying visit to Nesscliff on my own where I quickly climbed Northumberland Wonderland V7 Probably one of the best of its grade? And Pete's Route V6.
Well thats it so far this year but once the Temps drop hopefully we can get some hard sends on the go.

The Asp