Saturday 1 June 2013

A few FA's

Ok so I have been punting around trying to find motivation for my self. Im stuck at the moment mostly
bouldering as a lack of partners gives me no alternative, I have been spending a lot of time in the Pass just crabbing around but I was bored with the cromlech boulders and fancied a change so I headed back to Tanygrisiau to try a few lines. I started the morning with a quick warm up on Tempest a cool Font 7A and Y Chwydd 6B+. I then headed up to Geoff's Roof and almost managed a flash but went second try, then I made quick flashes of Lee Cooper, Ryan's Groove and Punch and Judy. I noticed a short but cool sequence between lee cooper and ryan's groove so I tryed the moves / move as its only rely one hard move. After a few attempts i managed the route and named it Festering Hell Font 6C after that i climbed round the corner and found a cool roofy boulder which hadn't been climbed so i brushed the holds and found a sequence. I then proceeded to climb the line of my first proper attempt to give Warrior Within Font 7A.


I have also been wondering around the Rhinogau and found some cool projects on the nice grit up there.
I have a short video of me climbing Revenge of the Fallen FA Font 7A+, its a cool steep arete which start's on a large pinch you then slap to a sloping crimper and get a kneebar which allows you to reach and cripm a pebble hold with your right you then make a huge slap for the top cutting loose and holding the hideous swing  
from the sloping top, this move had me flying of into space far to many times good fun though.