Sunday 25 November 2012

Hollywood Playboy

Hollywood Playboy
Hollywood Playboy: So I found a project for the year just down the road from where i live, I named it Hollywood Playboy inspired by a can of deodarent i had in my bathroom. Since i found the project I have bolted it with help from Terry Taylor and after many tries finally made an ascent. The route is about 3ft overhanging and very technical with 3 cruxes in which 1 is a dyno it starts with a rockover onto a block where you clip the second bolt from here an almost continuous sequence of hard moves leads to the top with only marginal rests. So you make the first easy crux sequence between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to a semi rest from here and extremely difficult pull rightward gains access to the crux sequence where a quick snatch to a pebble type crimp and a hard rockover followed by a foot swap on a marginal edge gains the sanctuary of larger crimps and the next bolt. From here you get a quick shake out and an attempt at the dyno move which if fully committed isn't that hard. Once you have made the dyno you then slap up and into a undercut mono and clip the bolt, all very strenuous. Even then theres still no let up as the final moves involve slapping up to sloping sidepulls on smears and a hard dynamic move to catch the hanging flake where the chains can be clipped. I gave the route 7c+ but to tell you the truth i have no idea  as i have onsighted 7b+ but never tryed anythin as hard as this so it might be graded wrong. I will say however after working the route i must have tried it between 20 and 30 times before i made an ascent so i am looking forward to a repeat if any ones up for the challenge.

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