Made another first ascent the other week I think sure no one else has done it so im claiming it.
Its the direct finish to Backshot at the cromlech boulders standard V6 but with a funky high foot and a comiting move, you start as for Backshot but after the first slap you go right hand high to a small bottle cap hold from here take the right foot super high and slap up with the right hand again to a reasonable flat edge and then an easy finish up the boulder.
So This is the one I have been waiting to post about, and its long over due.
The Dawn Arete
What can I say longer than expected but finally sent, so I bolted this project in November 2012 when a good friend told me it would be a perfect project. The winter weather kicked in though and I had to wait until late February until I could look at it, at first it was desperate and I could barely do each move of the two cruxes. After I had eventually worked all the moves which took around two long sessions I then headed back to make the lead. But It spat me off repeatedly and on one occasion broke my ankle. So after a great deal of healing time and a vast amount of hard bouldering I figured It was time to go back and try again. I re-worked the moves on it still finding it hard but much easier than it was 5 months ago, so after my re-acquaintance with the route I Started my attempts on the lead and made good progress falling on the last hard move as it were I then headed back and today on my third try of the day managed to send the route. I had around 7 sessions on this route and maybe around 10 good lead attempts over that time, Grade wise im not sure its only a short route of 12m with what feels like a long f7B boulder problem so I guess its around the 8a mark but for me the grade of this route doesn't matter its an amazing and intense route which put me through my paces and i'm glad I can say that the first ascent is mine.
More about the route- Well you start by scrambling up to the first bolt where a committing step left gains the Arete and the second bolt which has an insitue draw due to the high bolt. from here a frustrating sequence where a toe hook will come in use full allows a big span right to a sidepull. Have a quick shake here and clip the third bolt from here a huge thugy rockover allows you to press your knee against the arete creating an opposition against the right sidepull you then reach up to a four finger halfpad edge. Matching this was the usual point of failure, from here you slap to the arete get your feet high and press up to the good sidepull. Clip the fourth draw here and and make the final arete slap with the right allowing the use of balance and friction to press up under the steepness to a final sidepull and a tricky move round the arete to the anchors.
Well I think that our summer may be over but it was good while it lasted, so as we do in Britain when the weather is good we head out to the crags and boulders to test our self's and this is what I have attempted to do over the last few months. So I kicked off my Trad season which has been very brief this year with a re-intro to Trad on Foil (E3 6a) We then headed of to Cloggy to get on Great Wall (E4 6a) while it was dry. After this I had a flying Visit to Nesscliff where I quickly climbed Cones and Currents (E5 6b) and Trouble in Toytown (E5 6b). I then Worked the moves for Marlene Direct but was out of time for the lead so when I next visit its going down.
I Had a quick weekend at Stanage, even if it was scorching and managed to onsight a load of E3's but was reluctant to try hard due to the weather. I did however take the ride on Tea for Two (E4 6a) damn hard to get that foot high, also found the move on Tippler Direct desperate only just getting the onsight. Did the Unconquerable challenge with nearly 30mins to spare all onsight, and thats about if for my Trad this year so far.
Sending Tea for Two
However I have been spending a vast amount of time bouldering and managed a load of cool ticks, Starting with Turmoil and The Roof crack both around V7 I then did Ultimate retro party which I think deserves 3 stars (f7B) and the direct finish (F7B+). I also made a quick repeat of Bagshot a hard V6 just to the right of URP. Then it was time to head back to the roof crack area where I quickly repeated Sleep-Rock (f7B) and Sleep Light (f7B+) both in a session. I had another flying visit to Nesscliff on my own where I quickly climbed Northumberland Wonderland V7 Probably one of the best of its grade? And Pete's Route V6.
Well thats it so far this year but once the Temps drop hopefully we can get some hard sends on the go.
Ok so I have been punting around trying to find motivation for my self. Im stuck at the moment mostly
bouldering as a lack of partners gives me no alternative, I have been spending a lot of time in the Pass just crabbing around but I was bored with the cromlech boulders and fancied a change so I headed back to Tanygrisiau to try a few lines. I started the morning with a quick warm up on Tempest a cool Font 7A and Y Chwydd 6B+. I then headed up to Geoff's Roof and almost managed a flash but went second try, then I made quick flashes of Lee Cooper, Ryan's Groove and Punch and Judy. I noticed a short but cool sequence between lee cooper and ryan's groove so I tryed the moves / move as its only rely one hard move. After a few attempts i managed the route and named it Festering Hell Font 6C after that i climbed round the corner and found a cool roofy boulder which hadn't been climbed so i brushed the holds and found a sequence. I then proceeded to climb the line of my first proper attempt to give Warrior Within Font 7A.
I have also been wondering around the Rhinogau and found some cool projects on the nice grit up there.
I have a short video of me climbing Revenge of the Fallen FA Font 7A+, its a cool steep arete which start's on a large pinch you then slap to a sloping crimper and get a kneebar which allows you to reach and cripm a pebble hold with your right you then make a huge slap for the top cutting loose and holding the hideous swing
from the sloping top, this move had me flying of into space far to many times good fun though.
Headed out to Tanygrisiau today to try a boulder I had noticed a while back.
It climbs this small arch of rock with some cool moves went at around V6 so not to bad just needed a quick clean and was good to go so figured the moves and sent it. Looks like there is more potential in the area so I think I will be heading back up there regularly.
Quick update on my recent bouldering in Llanberis, went up to have a go on Jerrys Roof ended up With a Flash of the Edge problem sitting start V6 Then I did Johnnys problem V6 and managed to flash the sit start V7 not to bad if i do say so going to have to go back now to try Jerrys Roof good job I have a new van tho so I dont have to drive there and back the same day can just use it to kip in.
Well just back from a mega trip to the Verdon. Almost perfect except for my ankle.
What a cool place though, my mate Bruce phone's me and talks me into a trip to the Verdon. Not that I needed much convincing. So we are all planed and the date is set then i take a deck the day before we go buggering my ankle. On we go any way not wanting to miss out and i had already booked the time of work. All I can say is that its an amazing place for climbing and the scenery, we hit up loads of routes and had a great time. I managed to Onsight 7a which is no big grade but with only 1 working foot i don't think its to bad I also managed to climb what felt like the worlds hardest 7b probably 7c after a quick top rope lead clean first go so happy with that. We hit a load of the classics up including La Demande a must do such good fun apart from the chimney if you are carrying shoes and a camera and a rucksack between your legs then its no fun cause you get stuck for half an hour and have to heave your way out on a rope lol still amaziing tho.
Made another first ascent the other week I think sure no one else has done it so im claiming it.
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Headed out to Tanygrisiau today to try a boulder I had noticed a while back.
Quick update on my recent bouldering in Llanberis, went up to have a go on Jerrys Roof ended up With a Flash of the Edge problem sitting start V6 Then I did Johnnys problem V6 and managed to flash the sit start V7 not to bad if i do say so going to have to go back now to try Jerrys Roof good job I have a new van tho so I dont have to drive there and back the same day can just use it to kip in.
Well just back from a mega trip to the Verdon. Almost perfect except for my ankle.
All I can say is that its an amazing place for climbing and the scenery, we hit up loads of routes and had a great time. I managed to Onsight 7a which is no big grade but with only 1 working foot i don't think its to bad I also managed to climb what felt like the worlds hardest 7b probably 7c after a quick top rope lead clean first go so happy with that. We hit a load of the classics up including La Demande a must do such good fun apart from the chimney if you are carrying shoes and a camera and a rucksack between your legs then its no fun cause you get stuck for half an hour and have to heave your way out on a rope lol still amaziing tho.
